It is often said of American cities that you can never really know them simply by visiting. New York will never reveal its secrets to the tourist, Chicago is never the same season to season, and Los Angeles can never be truly known except by those who were born and raised in its sprawl. I think this is true everywhere; a traveler or a foreigner can only ever gain a glimpse of the places and people they pass through. I was lucky enough to spend two months of the summer in the city of Stockholm, Sweden. I had only ever been to Stockholm briefly before fleeing to the countryside, and while the Swedish countryside is famously beautiful, one can not experience Sweden without experiencing Stockholm. Cities are microcosms of culture; they are a concentration of people and economy, a petri dish of human life that is both a sample of the culture it is taken from and a different organism entirely. Stockholm is as much alive as the people that inhabit it, and I was able to be a part of that life for a short time.
Stockholm’s circulatory system is housed in the subways, buses, light rails, and ferries that connect the whole organism. Cars are not uncommon, but they are less convenient, as the extensive transit system will take you everywhere you would need to go. During the summer time, the subways are flush with commuters, families, tourists; all types of people with places to be. All distances, large and small, are covered by public transit, whether you need a bus to take you to the grocery store or a train out of the city. Stops and stations are frequent and the wait times are rarely longer than five minutes.
The lungs of Stockholm are the parks and waterways that breathe fresh air and vitality into the city. Stockholm is situated on an archipelago, with several large islands making up the center of the city. No matter which direction you walk, you will eventually find water, and the waterways are clean enough that you can go swimming or even catch fish. Stockholm is also well permeated with greenspaces. Parks, gardens, and churchyards are never far to find and are always available for the public to enjoy. On sunny days, people flock to these outdoor oases to enjoy the weather. When taking a ferry ride along the archipelago it is not uncommon to see a group of Swedes sunning themselves along the coast like lizards on a warm rock.
Old Town Stockholm, or Gamla Stan in Swedish, is the original island where the city was first built. The bones of Stockholm are found here in the remnants of the old city walls, the narrow cobblestone streets lined by centuries-old edifices, and even an ancient Viking runestone used as a cornerstone for one of the buildings. The king’s castle is found here, built in the 1700s, with the parliament house and city hall close by.
Keeping Stockholm strong and active during the summer are the muscles; the concerts, raves, bars, and outdoor events keep the city full of movement. Grönalund, Stockholm’s famous amusement park, hosts a series of concerts during the summer; this summer’s lineup included Dua Lipa, My Chemical Romance, the Pixies, and dozens more. At the beginning of the summer, there was a music festival taking place at the Rosendal Garden, and at the end, Lollapalooza Stockholm was just kicking off. Many outdoor bars, clubs, music venues, and eateries pop up over the summer in Stockholm to take advantage of the perfect weather and late-night sunshine.
Finally, the nervous system, the millions of sensory receptors that interpret the experience of Stockholm as much as they create it themselves, are the people. Stockholm is an extremely diverse city. It is not uncommon to sit on the train and hear Swedish, English, Arabic, Spanish, Mandarin, and other languages all being spoken at once, often interchanged in the same conversation. There are immigrants in Stockholm from all over the world, bringing their cultures to the shops, restaurants, and communities throughout the city. Traditional Swedish culture is also seen in Stockholm, from the annual Midsommar raising of the maypole to the Swedish song and dance performances at Skansen, to the Viking taverns in Gamla Stan.
Stockholm’s life as I experienced it is unforgettable but unfortunately limited. In the fall, it quickly becomes cold, and the weather no longer allows for outdoor activities. However, perhaps this is why Stockholm is so special; the harsh winter puts the city in hibernation so it may rest and return with renewed energy for the next summer. In truth, I have only enjoyed a fleeting impression of the true Stockholm experience. In my time in Stockholm, I have lived, worked, and played, and I hope to return and experience it anew, as I know I have only been privy to a small part of what Stockholm has to offer.
Susanna Lofvander
3rd Year Applied Mathematics Undergraduate, Nordic Center Assistant
Susanna is in her third year of her undergraduate degree in applied math with a focus on data science at UC Berkeley, in addition to a minor in Scandinavian studies. She is a student assistant to the Nordic Center and is interested in utilizing data and scientific advancement to promote sustainable business practices and government policy.
Nordic Center at UC Berkeley 